The Paris Fashion Week Men’s calendar is out, and one of the most notable additions for the Autumn/Winter 2025 season is American rising star Willy Chavarria, who will hold his debut show in the capital on 24 January.
The California-born designer, who launched his namesake brand in 2015, has been part of an exciting new guard on the New York Fashion Week schedule and rose to become one of the city’s main attractions. By moving to Paris, he follows in the footsteps of other US-based designers including Peter Do and Thom Browne.
He explains the rationale behind his move.
Vogue: Why did you decide to move your show to Paris?
While I’m very much a New York brand, I think the message we give is beyond just the United States of America. It’s a global message and it’s very important for that message to be heard globally. The more people I can touch with it, the better. Of course, from a business perspective, my exposure in Europe is also very important. It’s special for me to have the same sort of impact on another continent that we’ve had on North America.
Vogue: Do you think the outcome of the US election will drive designers to Paris?
American fashion has adopted a social justice attitude in a way that may invigorate some brands [to continue to show in the US, as a display of resilience]. So I don’t know if [Donald Trump’s] election will drive people to Paris. The issues that we have in the world are so intertwined with one another. We’re all in this mess together. So as long as the message gets out to the world, whether it’s in New York or Paris, it’s equally valuable.
Vogue: What message are you referring to?
It’s a message of love, human dignity and equality, and the protection of our civil rights. The new administration in the US has outlined its intention to withdraw many rights for women, for the LGBTQ community, for immigrants, for the poor, for people of colour. It’s a very serious situation, so my intention is to help to bring that awareness.
Vogue: But the election wasn’t the reason behind your decision to move to Paris?
No, in fact his election has made what we do in the United States even more valuable and it has ignited more fire under me, my team and the artists that I work with to really increase the volume on everything that we do.
Vogue: Do you see the Paris show as a single season move or a long-term plan?
I see it as long term, but I will need to have a very strong presence in both Paris and in New York. Having a presence in New York and supporting New York fashion is very important to me. In the future, it could be two seasons in Paris, a show in New York, back to Paris; something like that. The world changes and it’s fashion, so things change so much that where it’s most appropriate for me to show will be the place that I show.
The Council of Fashion Designers of America and New York City have been very supportive. There’s an attachment. It’s very familial showing in New York. We’ve really built a family here in the US and that family is starting to build in Europe and also in Asia.
Vogue: Do you see it as boosting your business in Europe?
Most certainly. That’s another exciting thing about showing in Paris: the buyers I’m meeting with in the showroom can come to the show, and I can share the feeling and the brand up close and personal with some of the people who haven’t yet been able to see it. As a company, we are growing quite rapidly.
Vogue: Would you consider opening a store in Paris?
I would love to have a flagship store in Paris, one in Tokyo and one in New York. I would like to open in Paris by 2026, no later.
Vogue: What else is planned?
We’re doing something very cool with Dover Street Market during Paris men’s fashion week. We are doing a collaboration with Latino Fan Club, the first gay Latino pornography company ever, from the late ’80s. It’s a capsule and it comes with a calendar of some of the most iconic ‘Willy’ boys wearing the underwear. There’s also a book called Dirty Willy. Actually, it’s a form of art-slash-pornography that we’re also going to be selling. The underwear party at Dover Street Market is on 26 January, to go into couture week on a high note. We’re also having an Adidas special pop-up event in Paris. It will be selling some of the merchandise that is part of the show.
Vogue: How do you feel about celebrating the brand’s 10th anniversary in Paris?
In some ways it feels like a graduation into a next level, because globally, Paris fashion is respected as the pinnacle of fashion and has always been. I think that there’s no better way to celebrate the 10th anniversary than to be on the highest platform in local fashion.
Vogue: Did you design the collection with Paris in mind?
I’ll have a slightly more European take on the fashion itself. We’ll see a bit more tailoring. Knowing that the United States is the godfather of streetwear and Paris is the godmother of couture — it’s a nice combination and I’ll celebrate a bit more of the godmother side.
Vogue: Anything else you’d like to add?
We’re so incredibly excited and honestly just overwhelmed with joy at this opportunity. It’s a very special moment for me and my team. We’ve been spending some more time in Paris over the last couple of seasons, my team and I, visiting Paris and going to shows and getting to share a bit of the ‘Willy’ ethos. We began to lay the groundwork, but now is the moment for us to fully embrace Paris with hugs and kisses.
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