The Paris men’s fashion week calendar is out, with an important newcomer, a major return and a very noticeable absentee.
Loewe will skip the Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear season. “Loewe men’s collection will be presented together with the women’s collection in March,” the house said in a statement.
This season will see the return of Jacquemus, whose last show on the official calendar was in March 2019 for women’s and January 2020 for men’s (since then, the brand has shown off-calendar). Other brands returning to the schedule for AW25 include Paul Smith, after a season at menswear fair Pitti Uomo in June; Officine Générale and Egonlab, which both skipped the pre-Olympics season.
Peter Copping’s debut for Lanvin will be held on the eve of couture at 8pm on Sunday. The timing is strategic. “We’re the oldest French couture house, even if we’re not doing couture and we’re not on the couture calendar,” Siddhartha Shukla, deputy CEO of Lanvin, recently told Vogue Business.
There are several new names on the calendar this season. All eyes will be on the Paris debut of American designer Willy Chavarria, who typically shows during New York Fashion Week. The show is set for 24 January at 6pm.
Joining Chavarria as newcomers to the official show calendar are 3.Paradis, a label founded by Emeric Tchatchoua in 2013, which won the Andam jury’s special prize in 2024, and SS Daley, whose founder and creative director Steven Stokey-Daley won the LVMH Prize in 2022 and was presented with the Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design in 2024.
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy by Scottish fashion designer Charles Jeffrey, Paris-based label Les Fleurs Studio and Post Archive Faction, a Korean menswear brand based in South Korea that was a semi-finalist of the LVMH Prize in 2021, each join the presentation schedule.
The schedule, which runs from 21 to 26 January, features 38 shows and 30 presentations, down from 2024’s 41 shows and 32 presentations. Other shows to watch include Louis Vuitton, Dior Men’s, Rick Owens, Hermès and Kenzo. Hed Mayner will take the Loewe spot on 25 January at 12pm. Bianca Saunders will hold a presentation after staging a show last season. Patou will show off-schedule on 26 January at 6pm.
Aside from Loewe, absentees are Wales Bonner by London-based designer Grace Wales Bonner; Dries Van Noten, which will present its men’s collection in a lookbook headed by new creative director Julian Klausner, ahead of his debut show in March; Givenchy, whose new creative director Sarah Burton will also present her debut collection in March; Valentino, which now shows co-ed twice a year and couture only once a year (in January); Berlin label Gmbh; and Alaïa, which showed in New York in September.
The spring 2025 couture week will run from 27 to 30 January. This season’s calendar features 28 houses, compared with 29 last January. Valentino, Ronald van der Kemp and Julien Fournié are among those to return, while Maison Margiela and Fendi (both yet to appoint new creative directors following the departures of John Galliano and Kim Jones, respectively) as well as Alexis Mabille are skipping this couture season. Highlights will include Schiaparelli, Chanel, Dior, Giorgio Armani Privé and Jean Paul Gaultier designed by Ludovic de Saint Sernin. This season’s new guest houses Miss Sohee and Germanier will close the curtain.
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