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As part of Cut From AnOther Cloth, Rikesh Chauhan interviews a series of craftspeople of colour who work on and around Savile Row. The project was conducted in collaboration with social impact company Other Box.
Ji Hae An Sykes is a Seoul-born, Hull-raised, London-based coatmaker and apprentice undercutter at Ede & Ravenscroft. Takudzwa Chigaduro is a 27-year-old tailor, born in Harare, Zimbabwe. She now lives in London where she has set up her eponymous label. Nadia Alsagoff is a production and merchandising manager at Drake’s, born and raised in Singapore to Yemeni parents.
I decided to interview them together because while their roles and backgrounds are vastly different, they share the same passion for craftsmanship and style — drawing inspiration from their respective heritages and upbringings, as well as Savile Row. They’re bold, they’re talented, they’re three young women you simply have to know about.
Tell me about what you do.
Ji: As an undercutter, I’m something of a personal assistant to my teacher and take baby steps in cutting, drafting, fitting and liaising with customers and tailors alike. Having been on both sides of the board, it’s been interesting to see the symbiotic relationship between tailor and cutter.
Takudzwa: I am an independent tailor and designer of my own brand. I see the client through the whole process — from first consultation to final fitting. I was lucky enough to have worked at a made-to-measure company where I learnt a lot about guiding the client through fabric choice, as well as knowing how to get the perfect fit on the final product, which has helped me a lot when working with my own clients.
Nadia: I work in production. I started in wholesale, and then I moved to merchandising and then on to production. When I moved here, I asked my manager, ‘What’s my title?’ He said: ‘You work in production.’
What advice would you give people of colour who want to try and work on Savile Row, be it as a cutter, marketer or front-of-house?
Ji: I need to stress that there is space for you. A piece of advice I received when I was first starting out was to not fear being different. At first, I must admit, this advice seemed difficult to take on board as I did not see many faces similar to mine. However, the longer I’ve worked in the industry, I’ve realised my perceived difference is what gives me a unique perspective on classic suiting and craftsmanship.
Nadia: I feel like Savile Row works very much on connections. It’s a lot about who you know. Just because, personally, when I’ve hired interns, a lot of the time it’s from within — recommendations from people we know, because it’s such a niche industry. Regardless of who you are, you have to be very knowledgeable about tailoring.
Make friends with people that are in this world, make yourself known and reach out. I’ve had someone message me directly on LinkedIn, asking if we had a position. And Savile Row is so small… if you do that with high street brands you won’t get a response. On LinkedIn, it’s me reading all the messages.
Takudzwa: Network. There’s always events going on down the Row. And even if there aren’t, go into the shops, introduce yourself. I haven’t directly worked on Savile Row, but I’m very much a part of the community. I get asked by houses that have job vacancies about who I’d recommend, and more often than not, they’ll end up getting the job. As a person of colour, I always found it a little bit harder to look for jobs in the traditional way, and a lot of the jobs I have had have come through recommendations.
What do you think needs to be improved on Savile Row?
Ji: The biggest companies on the Row are beginning to understand that diversity isn’t a box to be ticked, but rather, something that enriches and improves this great industry. With the rising cost of living, low apprenticeship wages are no longer sustainable for living in London. They ensure that only people who live within commuter distances or have access to financial support can give the role the time and focus it requires. Removing this barrier would make Savile Row more accessible for all.
Nadia: I think that social media is important for sure. If you show people of colour on Instagram or campaigns, customers can see themselves in what you’re making.
Comments, questions or feedback? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness.com.
More from this series:
Introducing Cut From AnOther Cloth
Cut From AnOther Cloth: Dhruva Chandramouli and Jenny Chim
